Willow opens on Tuesday
We’re not short of places to eat at Southwater, so why would you open another one?
Competition drives up standards, increases choice or drives down price. It’s basic economics. You don’t open up a new restaurant without ticking at least one of these boxes.
Willow, due to open fully on Tuesday, certainly ticks two of them. Decor & dishes leaning into Morroco and Mediterranean influences with impeccable service made our first taste of Willow at the preview night something to remember.
The owners are not big enough to have accountants asking if we can get away with not having a Spirit display like that, but are big enough to make the investement in the place to have a Spirit Display like that. It’s a sweet spot that makes the place feel luxurious and individual.
The food was surprising. It was a preview event which so we didn’t pay for a thing. This means that the food we had we didn’t choose, so we ate things that we normally wouldn’t order but we did ask for vegan and vegetarian only. It doesn’t mean there is an expectation to write a glowing review, or anything at all.
The nibbles were certainly in keeping with the ambiance. Olives with a lemon filling, Red Pepper Hummous and Flatbreads, equally delicious and portions headed towards starters than nibbles.
Presentation was perfect. From the little swords for the olives, to the crockery. We could have been in a Souk or a Taverna, a £129 Ryanair flight away.
Starters arrived, Roasted Hallumi with Honey and Sherry Vinegar, and a Spanish tapas dish with a twist Sweet Patatas Bravas. The ingredients were clearly fresh and care taken in the selecting, inventing and execution of this food. Could not fault it. Interesting and enjoyable.
It was also interesting to see alcohol free beers on draught, a more and more common sight these days.
For the main course, I had probably the greenest dish I have ever seen. Green in colour, nothing to do with net carbon, although to be fair, it may have effected my subsequent emissions. Feta and Spinach Orzo, with broccoli and pesto. For non-pasta afficionados, orzo is a type of pasta which resembles rice, making the dish look a little like a risotto.
This is not something I would have ordered myself, but was a dish I’m pleased I had. I would certainly order it again, everything on the plate fresh and the right amout of feta giving a saltiness to the broccoli.
The other main was a vegan Moroccan Roasted Squash with pomegranate glaze, smoked chickpea stew, tenderstem and zhoug dressing. The freshest of ingredients, very enjoyable. Both portions sizable enough that we could only manage a few bites of the Tahini salad with giant couscous, meat radish, pickled beetroot, smashed avocado, tahini miso dressing, smashed salted cucumbers and goji berries.
A break before the dessert came meant we could have a quick look around. The restaurant is set out in descrete zones on two levels. Enough small booths for a intimate dinner and enough open space for larger parties without feeling like you are in an aircraft hangar.
The dessert was rich but balanced. A slice of ark Chocolate & Orange Tart with vegan rum and raisin ice cream, rum soaked raisins and orange sauce.
In many places, vegans are shortchanged with desserts. Often an unimaginative afterthought of fresh fruit salad or nothing at all. Not here.
No one would complain if the dish was not served with rum soaked raisins, but the fact that it was, gives you a reminder that this menu has been put together by people with a focus on delivering great food.
I’ve been to lots of soft launches at bars across the Midlands in a previous life in the hospitality industry. Some where the smell of wet paint overwhelmed the atmosphere, one where the mouldings on the bar were still being fitted by chippies as the first pint was pulled.
This one was absolutely next level. From the greeting at the door, to the time we left, the team, the food, the venue combined to make this the jewel in Southwater.
Price. I’ve left this until last. All this quality doesn’t come cheap, and Willow is clearly not competing on price with the surrounding food places.
Don’t expect Spoons prices when a member of staff will come along a pour you some water at the table. That said, mains ranging from £14 for the vegan dishes to £25 for the Rump Steak, it’s not exactly Salt Bae territory either.
Put the whole experience together and the verdict is a great experience for a fair price. Five stars from me, you have to try it.
